You know there’s a correct way to install woodscrews, right? When joining two pieces of wood, a shank hole should be drilled through the workpiece you’re attaching to another piece. This hole is sized so that the screw threads pass through without grabbing. This prevents the workpiece from “jacking up” when driving the screw. You know what I mean — you’ve had it happen. And when this happens, there’s often a gap between the workpieces no matter how tight you drive the screw.

Infinity Tools 25-pc. Countersink & Quick-Change Drill Set

But it’s the pilot hole that also must be properly sized. This is where the screw threads actually engage the wood to draw the pieces tight. And it makes a difference whether it’s hardwood or softwood. Screw threads will “bite” better in hardwood, so the pilot hole can be slightly larger than it would be in softwood. A pilot hole that is undersized can risk breaking the screw as it’s driven in. (Here’s a link to a handy chart for all the proper drill sizes for woodscrews.)

And let’s talk about installing flathead woodscrews. They should be countersunk flush or below the surface of the wood. So this adds a third dimension to the screw hole.

My past experience has been to hunt around and visually compare a drill bit to the actual screw I’m using and say to myself, “That’s close enough.” Then there’s the issue of drilling the pilot hole, switching bits to drill the shank hole, then finishing up with a countersink or counterbore. The all-in-one countersink/drill bits were a godsend when they came around. But too many of us assume that drilling the same size hole for the shank and threads is “good enough.” (See my earlier comment about “jacking.”)

Did I also mention that after drilling, you need to switch bits to drive the screws?

The Snappy Quick-Change system from Infinity Tools is a must-have for your toolbox.

Fortunately, there’s an easy solution that addresses all of the frustrations when drilling and driving wood screws. It’s the Snappy 25-Piece Countersink & Quick Change Drill Set by Infinity Tools. There are a lot of features that make this set a must-have in your shop.

First, the set includes a quick-change chuck. Simply install it in your drill or driver then changing bits will literally be a snap. The quick-chuck accepts 1/4″ hex-shank bits or drivers.

There are drill bits sized for drilling pilot holes for woodscrews. Then you can switch to the countersink bits for drilling the shank clearance hole and countersink in one operation. But there’s another benefit to the system — you can set the depth of the countersink or counterbore by using one of the two included stop collars.

And when it’s time to drive the screws, you get a set of Phillips and square drive bits to drive the most common woodscrews.

The set comes in a handy case to hold all of the components. On the outside of the case is a handy pocket to keep any extra bits or screws you want to have on hand.

The drill/driver set comes in a handy case with an external pocket for accessories.

If you want to streamline your time in the shop, invest in the Snappy 25-Piece Countersink & Quick Change Drill Set. You won’t be sorry.

The Infinity Tools One-Piece Insert-Pro Rail & Stile cutterhead comes with a standard set of knives and an allen wrench.

Traditionally, making rail and stile cabinet doors requires a matched set of shaper cutters that create a cope cut on the ends of the rails or the sticking cut on the inside edges of the door frame pieces. The cutterheads must be swapped out of the machine to switch between the two cuts. With the Infinity Cutting Tools Insert-Pro 1 Pc. Cabinet Shaper Cutter, both the rail and stile cuts are made with a single head. This has a couple of major benefits. First, there’s no swapping of cutterheads required to make each type of cut. This saves valuable time in the shop. With the 1-pc. cutterhead, all you need to do is raise or lower the spindle to switch between cuts.

The upper portion of the head is used to make the rail cut when run in standard rotation.

The lower portion of the head is used to make the stile cut in standard rotation.

The beauty of the Infinity Insert-Pro Cabinet Door Shaper Cutter system is that it allows you to replace the insert-style, C-4 micro-grain carbide knives quickly and easily if they become damaged or when they become dull. This special carbide is harder and takes a keener edge than any carbide used in a braised cutterhead. Because of this, you can expect a super-clean cut from the insert knives long after a traditional cutterhead would need to be resharpened.

The C4 Micro-grain Carbide knives are easily replaced when damaged or dull.

If a project design requires a new cabinet door profile, the Insert-Pro 1 pc. Cabinet Door Shaper cutter head will accept all five profiles of replacement knives.

All 5 profiles of Insert-Pro knives can be purchased separately for expanding your cabinet door design options.

This means that If your cutterhead is set up with ogee knives and you need to make a cabinet door with an Art Deco profile, all you need is a pair of replacement knives in the Art Deco profile. It just takes a minute or two to change out the knives before you get back to work.

The Infinity Cutting Tools 1-pc. Cabinet Door Shaper Cutter is available in 1-1/4″ bore for use on shapers with a 1-1/4″ spindle. If your shaper has a 3/4″, 1″, or 30mm spindle, Infinity offers a complete line of T-bushings that adapt the spindle for the Insert-Pro cutterhead. If you need a rub collar to ease setup or to follow a template for making arch-top or cathedral-top doors, Infinity has the a rub collar that is a perfect match. Even if your not making Arched Top doors we recommend using our precision rub collar for fast and accurate setup. Simply align the edge of the rub collar with the fence faces when making straight cuts.

Here’s an in-depth video describing the Infinity Tools Insert-Pro One-Piece Rail & Stile Shaper Cutter:

#InfinityTools

Infinity Cutting Tools has a saw blade in their inventory that a lot of folks don’t understand. We call it the 10″ Multi-Material, 80-tooth saw blade. It was originally designed to cut materials like melamine (which is prone to chipout) and non-ferrous metals like brass and aluminum. But it can do so much more. (Perhaps we should rename it.)

There are a couple of things that make this blade different than your run-of-the-mill combination, crosscut, or rip blade. First off, every tooth on the blade is a Triple-Chip Grind (TCG). This tooth configuration is designed so that each tooth takes a smaller bite without “grabbing” the material. It’s common in industrial shops.

The Infinity 010-380 Multi-Material blade features a negative hook angle and a triple-chip grind.

The triple-chip grind also means you’ll get less tearout and chipping on the material as the blade exits the cut. This is particularly important when working with melamine-coated sheet goods and cabinet-grade plywood with its paper-thin veneers.

Secondly, the teeth have a negative rake angle. This means that each tooth creates more of a shearing cut than blades with a positive rake angle. This, in combination with having 80 teeth, results in a smoother cut.

The higher tooth count and negative rake angle make this blade behave a little differently than your typical, aggressive saw blade. Because there are many teeth, you can’t feed the material into the blade as fast as you might be used to. And you’ll want to keep the blade height pretty low (about half a tooth above the material) so that the teeth are cutting at a lower shear angle rather than the “chopping” action of a highly elevated blade.

I’ve cut all sorts of material with this blade including MDF, aluminum, and plywood. If you’re looking for the ultimate edge, particularly with MDF, this blade really shines.

Another great application for this blade is your miter saw or radial arm saw. The negative hook angle makes it ideal for these applications. You won’t be disappointed in the quality of cross-grain cuts in hardwood and softwood using this blade.

Those that know me know that I have an obsession with measuring, marking, and layout tools. I don’t know why, but I have a serious collection of rules, marking knives, calipers, and particularly, steel rules.

Most of my measuring tools sit in a drawer, but besides my measuring tape, I have a few steel rules that are my favorites and are always within reach.

Infinity Tools Stainless Steel Rule Set 100-068

When I’m shopping for a steel rule (or set of rules), there are a few features I look for. First, I stay away from any rule that has stamped markings. You’ll find these in hardware stores and home centers. The markings are simply pressed, or stamped, into the steel. Usually, there’s no ink applied to help you see the markings. And even if you can see the markings, they’re so wide that taking an accurate measurement involves a fair amount of guesswork. With stamped markings, the line is too fat to make an accurate determination of the measurement.

The best rules use lasers to etch the markings onto the steel. Doing this creates a hairline at each division, so making precise measurements is easy — it’s either on the line or it isn’t. But to make these fine markings even easier to read, look for the rules where the etchings have been inked so they stand out.

The rules I keep near my table saw and router table at all times also include a handy feature you won’t find on a lot of rules. The ends of the rule are marked in 1/32″ increments. These are perfect for setting bit and blade heights. As a matter of fact, I also keep a 6″ rule in my apron pocket so it’s always at hand.

Etchings on the end of the stainless steel rule are ideal for tool setup

Finally, I stay away from rules that are so shiny that they reflect the light and make it hard to read the markings. A satin finish is preferred. It provides a nice contrast to the inked etchings without producing distracting glare.

You’ll be happy to know that Infinity Cutting Tools offers a complete set of stainless steel rules that meet all of my fussy requirements. They’re available individually or in a set that includes 6″, 12″, 18″, and 24″ rules.

These rules are perfect for tool setup and layout work. They also make handy straightedge for checking tools and workpieces for flatness.

I keep the 12″, 18″, and 24″ rules near my table saw for setting the rip fence and marking cut lines on workpieces. I have another set near the workbench for layout work. As I said, I have several 6″ rules that reside near all my stationary tools and in my apron pocket.

A 6″ stainless steel rule from Infinity Tools (100-064) makes an ideal apron tool

This set of rules offers a good value for quality measuring tools. There’s no excuse not to give them a home in your workshop.

In order for hand tools — like chisels and planes — to work properly and safely, they need to be sharp. The problem is, getting a tool truly sharp is not all that easy unless you have good sharpening equipment and a technique that yields fast and repeatable results. There are more sharpening stones, jigs, and techniques around then you can shake a chisel at and all have their pros and cons. However, one technique stands out as being easy to master and great for beginners and experienced woodworkers alike. And above all, you won’t have to break the piggybank to get started.

The 20-pc. Infinity Tools Sandpaper Sharpening System (100-SSS) is all you need to get an ultra-sharp edge on your hand tools.

Infinity Cutting Tools has a package that includes makes maintaining the correct bevel and producing hair-splitting results a breeze. It’s inexpensive and makes the sharpening process foolproof. The Infinity Tools 20-pc. Sandpaper Sharpening System (100-SSS) includes everything you need to get started: 9 grits of wet/dry sandpaper, 2 sheets each (102-200), a side-clamping honing guide (100-005), and a honing bevel setup gauge (100-007). The only other items you’ll need are a flat surface and perhaps a can of spray adhesive.

You will need a flat surface to stick your sandpaper to. I use a couple of inexpensive 12″ x 12″ granite tiles from the home center.

After flattening the back and polishing up through the grits in the system you should be able to use the back of your tool as a mirror. Once the tool is flat and polished, subsequent sharpening will only require a few licks on the finest grit paper.

The key to getting any chisel or plane iron sharp and tuned properly is a flat, polished back. Starting with 220 grit paper gives you a good indication of how much work is needed to flatten the back. Once you have a consistent scratch pattern on the first inch or so of the back it’s just a matter of progressing through the grits, creating finer and finer scratch patterns, until you develop a mirror surface. With 9 grits, ranging from 220 all the way to 2500, getting a polished surface happens pretty fast. Don’t be tempted to move up in grits to quickly. Take the time on 220-grit to insure that your scratch pattern goes all the way up to the cutting edge, then move on.

Once the back is flattened and polished, subsequent sharpening only requires a few strokes on 2500-grit to remove the burr when refreshing the edge. A damaged edge my require a trip back to coarser grits first but the process will be faster since the back is already flat.

Once the back is polished, establishing the bevel goes quick. A side-clamping honing guide and the Infinity honing setup gauge make quick work of setting up the bevel angle for repeatable sharpening. Use 220-grit to quickly establish a primary bevel. A primary bevel of 25* to 30* works well for almost any woodworking tool.

The Infinity Tools Honing Guide (100-005) makes quick work of establishing the primary bevel and micro-bevel.

The key to a sharp edge is the burr. A burr is formed when when the bevel and back of the tool meet and metal is drawn off the cutting edge. This burr is the tell-tale sign that you’ve sharpened the cutting edge as far as it could go and the new edge is ready for final honing. Don’t be tempted to jump up in grit before you have a burr — you’ll waste time and energy. With 220 grit paper, the burr should be big enough to both feel and see hanging from the cutting edge.

Using the shim on the Infinity Tools Setup Gauge (100-007) to establish the micro-bevel

Here is where the magic happens. Grab your Infinity setup gauge and micro bevel shim and increase you bevel angle just a bit to produce a micro bevel. Jump straight up to the 2500 grit paper and give the back of the cutter a few licks to fold the burr back toward the bevel, then hone the bevel on the 2500 grit to create a micro bevel. After a few strokes the burr should fall away. 20 or 30 strokes should be all it takes to establish the micro bevel and produce a super-sharp edge. Flipping back and forth, a few strokes on the back and bevel will insure that the entire burr falls away and leaves behind a beautiful, sharp edge ready to put to work.

With a few tools and a little know-how, anyone can have super-sharp tools on even the tightest budget.

An iVac Automated Dust Collection System takes the hassle out of operating your dust collector.

iVac has become well-known for making it easy to automate the dust collection system for any shop, big or small. Here at Infinity we have done our best to make choosing the right iVac package for your shop easy and worry-free. Let me show you how to go about connecting your dust collector to an iVac system and exactly what you’ll need. In short, it all depends on the size of your dust collector’s motor.

We’ve made it easy for you to select the right iVac system using the flowchart below. Click the image to see the PDF version:

If your dust collector is relatively small and is rated at 8 amps or fewer (roughly 1 hp for 115v and 2hp for 230v) you can get by with just an iVac Pro Switch for a truly plug-and-play system. However, if your dust collector is rated at 9 amps or more you will need an iVac Contactor (115-107).

You can find the amperage rating for your dust collector by checking the label on the motor.

The iVac Contactor Dust Collector Controller (115-107) is a relay that is wired between your dust collector and the iVac Pro Switch. It insulates the switch from the higher amperage draw of a larger dust collector that might damage it if it were connected directly to your dust collector. The great part is, the Contactor only requires a 115V Pro Switch (115-102S) no matter what type of dust collector you have.

The iVac Contactor and the 115v iVac Pro Switch work together for any dust collector up to 10hp.

The beauty of the Contactor is that it makes your iVac system truly universal. It doesn’t matter if your dust collector is 115v, 230v, or even 600 volts/3-phase, the Contactor will allow you to wire it right up. This is especially important if you have a small dust collector now and want to upgrade to a larger one in the future. You won’t have to worry about your new dust collector being compatible with your iVac system.

NOTE: Before wiring up the contactor, be sure to consult with a licensed electrician and your local electrical codes first. And if you’re not comfortable connecting the wiring yourself, by all means talk to an licensed electrician. The instructions and photos shown here are for illustrative purposes only and may not be representative of your local electrical codes. These are straightforward systems to wire and can be installed in short order. iVac includes a clear set of instructions that explain the basics of wiring your dust collector for use with the Contactor.

Infinity Cutting Tools is not responsible and cannot be held liable for any damages or injury that may occur from improper wiring.

Once you have power coming into the Contactor, connecting everything else in the iVac system is easy.

Wiring up the power cord for the iVac Contactor is as simple as connecting the ground wire and the hot and neutral leads which already have female termincal connectors installed.

The first step is to hook up the power cord that plugs into your 115V Pro Switch. This cord comes with the Contactor and already has all the connectors installed on the wires. Attach the ground (green) wire to the ground post on the Contactor box, and plug the hot wire (Black) and neutral wire (white) onto the posts on the relay.

The second step is to connect the A/C power source coming from the wall into the Contactor. For 115v and 230v collectors, this process is also pretty straightforward.

For a 115v dust collector the hot and neutral wires from the A/C power source are connected to the L1 and L2 terminals. These two wires will bring power into the Contactor.

For 115v, you have a hot wire (black), a neutral wire (white), and a ground wire (green). Attach the ground wire to the ground post in the box. Attach the hot and neutral wires to the L1 and L2 terminals. It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which terminal.

For a 230v dust collector both hot wires coming from the power source are connected to the L1 and L2 terminals. These two wires will bring power into the Contactor.

For 230v dust collectors, you’ll have 2 hot wires (they could be red, black, or one of each) and a ground (green) wire. Attach the ground wire to the ground post in the box. Attach the 2 hot wires to the L1 and L2 terminals.

Connecting a 115v dust collector is as simple as connecting the hot and neutral wires from the dust collector to the T1 and T2 terminals.

The third step is to attach the wires from your dust collector to the Contactor. For 115V, again you will have hot, neutral, and ground wires. ground goes to the ground post and the hot and neutral wires go to the T1 and T2 terminals. Simply match the wire colors from the L1 and L2 terminals. In other words, if the hot (black) wire from the wall is attached to L1 terminal make sure the hot (black) wire from the dust collector is attached to the T1 terminal.

Connecting a 230v dust collector is just as easy as for a 115V collector. Don’t forget to connect your ground wires to the Contactor box.

For 230V, the process is exactly the same. Match wire to wire from L1 and L2 to T1 and T2 and you’re set.

I’m not going to go into the details of wiring your system for 3-phase power, but the Contactor will work just fine if you have 3 Phase in your shop and need it for your dust collector. The T3 and L3 terminals are used for hooking up 3-phase machines.

The iVac Pro Tool Plus (115-111) simply clamps over your woodworking machine’s power cord, senses current when you turn on the machine, which in turn powers on your dust collector.

The rest of the iVac system is very easy to install. The iVac Pro Tool Plus simply clamps onto the power cord of your machine, like a table saw, and then plugs into a 110V outlet. Similarly, the iVac Pro Blast Gate replaces your manual 4″ blast gate and plugs into its own 110V outlet.

The iVac Pro Blast Gate (115-108) replaces a manual 4″ blast gate and automatically opens and closes when you start your machine.

The Pro Tool Plus (115-111), Pro Blast Gate (115-108), and Pro Switches have a series of small DIP switches inside that allow you to program the system so everything works together and the correct blast gate opens when you turn on your machine. iVac also has very clear instructions for programming your system.

Programming the iVac System is as simple as following the included instructions and flipping the little switches inside on or off.

Each iVac Pro System can have up to 8 tools and 8 blast gates all connected to one dust collector. If you have a large shop with more than one dust collector you can have as many as 4 systems installed. This means up to 32 machines can be controlled by an iVac system without any issues.

If you’re like me, you don’t think about sharpening a knife until you go to use it and it won’t slice through melted butter. Not only is a dull knife counterproductive, but it’s also unsafe. My dad always told me that a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one.

Infinity Tools Hock Chef Knife Set (00-611)

So what do you use to sharpen your knives? For me, if it’s a pocketknife or shop knife, I usually use a waterstone or diamond stone. For kitchen knives, I’ve tried just about every gadget in the book. Some worked better than others. And I’ve been known to bring my honing stones into the kitchen a time or two. But even then, the results were hit-and-miss. Occasionally, I’ll know I got lucky when my wife grabs a kitchen knife to use it and exclaims, “My! That’s really sharp!” I wish she could say that about all of our kitchen knives.

Infinity Tools Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Knife Sharpener (116-550)

Infinity Tools carries the Work Sharp Ken Onion line of knife-sharpening products. And let me tell you, I’ve never used an easier, more foolproof system for sharpening knives. There are some really nice videos on the Infinity Cutting Tools web site that show how the system works. The basic system is handy — and small enough — to have around the shop or kitchen for keeping all of your tool and knife edges as sharp as a razor. Like I said, it’s easy to use for those quick touch-ups on dull knives.

Infinity Tools Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Knife Grinding Attachment (116-558)

If you’re a real knife purist, collector, or just appreciate a top-quality sharpening method, the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Knife Grinding Attachment (116-558) steps sharpening up to a whole new level. This add-on attaches to the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Knife Sharpener (116-550). It adds a lot of flexibility and capability for getting the ultimate in sharp, polished edges. With this system, you can even sharpen serrated knives.

As is usual for Infinity Cutting Tools, there are replacement belts available for the basic system and the knife grinding attachment. A blade stropping kit (116-560) is also available for the grinder attachment that includes a couple of cloth belts and two different honing and polishing compounds. You’ll want to check it out.

Now there’s absolutely no excuse for having a dull knife in the kitchen or shop.

Hock Chef Knife Set from Infinity Cutting Tools (00-611)

A lot of folks don’t realize that we carry Hock Chef’s Knife Kits in 5″ (101-610) and 8″ (101-611) lengths. The 8″ chef’s knife is a recent addition to our lineup. You can get both knives in a set. If you, or someone you know, enjoys cooking, they’re probably pretty particular about the knives they use and how sharp they are.

With these kits, you get to add custom scales for the handle to create a unique, one-of-a-kind knife. Andrew wrote a really nice blog post about how he made a set of custom knives. Go check it out.

Custom Hock Chef Knives made from kits sold by Infinity Cutting Tools

The Hock knives are made of O1 high-carbon tool steel. This makes them easier to sharpen and they can be sharpened to a finer edge than you’ll get with most stainless steel knives. That being said, since they are made of tool steel, they’ll have a tendency to rust more so than stainless steel blades. But with a little care, you’re knife should last for generations.

Here are some tips for taking care of your Hock Chef’s Knife. First, don’t immerse the knife in water, and especially don’t put it in the dishwasher. Simply wipe it clean with a damp cloth and dry it thoroughly before storing it. We recommend storing you knives in a knife block to protect the cutting edges.

If you want to give the blade a little polish, you can use a mild abrasive cleaner, very fine steel wool, or a non-woven abrasive pad like a Scotch-Brite pad.

As for sharpening, you have a lot of options. First, we’re not a big fan of the sharpening steel rod that comes with most knife sets. It doesn’t really “sharpen” the edge. All it does is roll over the existing edge until it breaks off. This only gives the illusion of sharpness and the blade will eventually need touched up with an abrasive sharpener at some point.

Infinity Tools Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Sharpening Systems

We offer the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Knife Sharpening accessories. If you’ve never heard of Ken Onion and wonder why he has a line of sharpening accessories named after him, check out this Wikipedia page. These products provide a full-proof method for getting an edge so sharp it will slice a tomato into paper-thin slices with no effort. No kidding.

Other options for sharpening include our line of diamond stones or waterstones. The product you choose will depend on your comfort level with sharpening, your budget, and sharpening experience.

Order your knife kits today and get out in the shop this weekend to create a unique tool you or someone you love will appreciate for many years.

Infinity Cutting Tools 7-pc. Professional Router Bit Set (00-113)

However you store your router bits, I’m sure there are a few that are the easiest to reach because you use them more often than the others. And I’ll just bet that the 7 router bits you use the most are the same ones included in the Infinity Tools 7-pc. Professional Router Bit Set (00-113).

As the graphic below shows, you can get a multitude of profiles and uses from this set of router bits. Each bit features a 1/2″-dia. shank and micro-grain carbide cutting edges for the smoothest cut and lasting sharpness. The set comes complete in a handy storage box.

Infinity Tools 7-pc. Professional Router Bit Set (00-113)

The roundover bits (1/2″-rad. and 3/8″-rad.) not only ease the sharp edges of workpieces, but you can set the depth to create a small step, or fillet, to create a common, decorative profile.

Infinity Cutting Tools 1/2″ Rounder Bit (38-880)

Infinity Cutting Tools 3/8″ Rounder Bit (38-817)

The 3/4″-dia. straight bit is great for cutting dadoes and grooves, as well as rabbets, for a lot of joinery options. At the router table, you can use the straight bit to cut tenons, tongues, half-lap joints, and other versatile options. With the included bearing, you can turn this bit into a pattern bit.

Infinity Cutting Tools 3/4″ Straight Bit with Bearing (12-690B)

The cove bit is handy for a lot of operations, as well. Besides the obvious use of making a cove cut along the edge of a workpiece to create a molding, you can create stacked molding using the cove bit in combination with the roundover bits to create a variety of classic profiles.

Infinity Cutting Tools 1/2″ Cove Bit (37-850)

The chamfer bit is great for creating shadow lines along the edges of a workpiece to add visual interest to your finished project.

Infinity Cutting Tools Chamfer Bit (36-920)

And no woodworking shop is complete without a flush-trim bit and a pattern bit. From cutting odd-shaped workpieces using templates to trimming shelf edging flush, this pair of bits is a must-have.

Infinity Cutting Tools Flush Trim Bit (06-627)

Our 7-pc. set not only includes a rabbeting bit, it also includes a set of bearings that allow you to create rabbets in up to six different widths and convert the straight bit to a pattern bit. You won’t find this in a lot of router bit sets from our competitors.

Infinity Cutting Tools 7-pc. Bearing Set (RB-155)

So you see, with the inclusion of the bearings, this router bit set is really a lot more than 7 pieces. And when you buy the set, you’re saving over $60 than if you buy all of the pieces individually. However you add it up, it’s a good value for the highest quality router bits, so order yours today.

Comparing an Infinity Cutting Tools Router Table Package to a Shop Fox 3-hp shaper.

Here at Infinity Cutting Tools we often get asked some basic questions about shapers and why a woodworker might choose one over a router table. If you’re wondering the same thing, here are my answers to 5 common questions about shapers.

The difference between a raised panel router bit and shaper cutter of the same profile is obvious when compared side-by-side.

1. What is the difference between a shaper and a router table?

The biggest difference between the two is the type of cutter they use and how they are powered. Router tables use router bits that have a shank permanently attached to the cutter in a router mounted under the table. Shapers have a spindle that accepts a cutter head that slides onto the spindle. Spindle sizes range from 1/2″-diameter all the way up to 1-1/4″ in diameter and are built for heavier duty use than a router. Shapers use a motor with a belt drive to power the spindle and can deliver more torque than a router. To make a comparison, the router table would be equivalent to a job-site or contractor table saw while the shaper would be similar to a cabinet saw.

Shapers excel at removing large amounts of material in a hurry while still producing a clean cut. This example shows cutting double raised panels for interior doors. A process that would take at least 4 passes at the router table can be done in a single pass at the shaper.

2. When would a shaper be a better choice than a router table?

Shapers are very well-suited to high volumes of work or heavy work like door-making. The heavy-duty spindle and large-diameter cutters can improve the life expectancy of the cutters and improve cutting action, especially on large cuts like raising panels. The power and mass of the shaper and shaper cutter allows heavy cuts to be made in a single pass where multiple passes would be required at the router table. This can save a lot of time in a production shop. But don’t completely dismiss the router table.

Many shapers are reversible, adding flexibility and shaping options that are not possible with a router table.

3. Why are some shapers reversible?

While I’m not an expert on the origins of reversible shapers, I do know that this can be a very handy feature. With a router you can only make cuts in one direction. In some cases, it may be desirable to run material in the opposite direction. The grain direction on the workpiece might be a good reason to reverse the direction of cut in order to avoid tearout. With a reversible shaper, all that needs to be done is to flip the cutter over and reverse the rotation of the motor with the flip of a switch. Instead of feeding the material right-to-left in the conventional manner, you can now feed the material from left to right with the spindle spinning in the reverse direction. This also gives you the option to run things like raised panels or rail-and-stile cuts face-up or face-down depending on which might be better suited to the task.

Shapers often come with an assortment of spindle diameters. Above is a shaper with a 1-1/4″ spindle installed. On the table are a 3/4″ spindle and a router collet spindle which allows this shaper to use 1/2″-shank router bits.

4. Can you run router bits in a shaper?

Sometimes. Many shapers come with a router collet that can be installed in place of the spindle. However, shapers typically spin at a much lower RPM than routers. This is acceptable for large-diameter bits like the Infinity Tools Mega Dado and Planer Bit or Ogee Raised Panel Router Bit with Backcutter, but it’s much too slow for a bit such as a 1/4″ round-over bit.  The highest speed on a 2-speed shaper is typically around 10,000 rpm, which is about 2,000 RPM slower than the slowest setting on a variable-speed router.

For a small shop, a 3hp shaper with a 3/4″ spindle and router collet spindle would be a fine choice. However, for larger cutters, such as the Infinity Cutting Tools Insert Pro shaper cutters, a shaper with a 1-1/4″ spindle may be worth consideration.

5. What size shaper should I buy?

This greatly depends on the work you plan to do. Shapers come in many different sizes and configurations. If you’re a serious hobby or custom furnituremaker, a small shaper with a 3/4″ spindle may be all you need. If you’re starting a production cabinet shop, a 3-hp spindle shaper may be the way to go because it allows you to have the rail cutter, stile cutter, and panel-raising cutter all set up at the same time. It all depends on the requirements of the product being produced. In any case, I recommend a machine with at least a 3/4″ spindle. 3/4″-bore shaper cutters are the most common and cutters with a larger bore like the Infinity Tools Insert Pro Shaper Cutters with 1-1/4″ bore can be adapted to the smaller spindle with a set of T-bushings.

6. What about the cost of shaper cutters vs. router bits?

There’s no question that purchasing cutter heads and knives for a shaper are an investment. But the trade-off is that you can cut larger profiles more quickly. Plus, shaper cutters typically last longer than router bits between sharpenings. Router bits, on the other hand, offer a wider selection of profiles at a lower cost.

The bottom line is, a shaper is the granddaddy of the router table. They perform similar functions. For heavy-duty use and faster production, a shaper is the tool of choice. The router table, on the other hand, is a must-have in any woodworking shop.

I’ve served on the Board of Directors for an amazing non-profit organization, Tools for Opportunity, for a number of years. They provide tools and training to woodworking craftsmen in Central America. I’ve had the privilege of making two trips to El Salvador to teach classes. Our teams have also been to Honduras on several occasions.

It’s an eye-opening experience to see what little these craftsmen have in the way of tools, supplies, and workspaces to try to support their families. More often than not, their tools are hand-made with whatever material they can find.

Handmade Table Saw in Central America

When we show up with donated tools from the states, their reaction is priceless. Then, when we take the time to teach them how to use the tools, they become even more excited at the possibilities for improving their workmanship and creating new projects.

The workmanship of a Central American craftsman supported by Tools for Opportunity

When I joined Infinity Cutting Tools, I approached David Venditto, owner, about supporting Tools for Opportunity. He agreed to do so by providing much-needed router bits and saw blades for one of our teams to deliver to craftsmen in Honduras.

Infinity Cutting Tools’ donation to Tools for Opportunity

These are the most common router bits and saw blades any woodworker would use most often. I’m sure they will see a lot of use by the woodworkers in Honduras.

You, too, can help our mission at Tools for Opportunity. Just click here or visit the home page and click on the Donate button at the left of the page. 100% of your funds help provide tools and training for deserving craftsmen. And if you’ve got a few, usable hand tools you’d like to donate, you can find out where to ship them here.

And one last thing: please join Tools for Opportunity’s facebook page to keep up on the latest news. We really appreciate your support.

Sometimes I get curious about the origin of things. In this case, I was curious about how Forstner drill bits came to be. I did a little digging and came up with a tidbit of information on Wikipedia and woodworkinghistory.com. Seems there was this gunsmith named Benjamin Forstner.

Benjamin Forstner
Source: http://www.auroracolony.org/old/families/forstner_family/

If you know anything about guns, you know that during the early years of gun manufacturing, gun stocks and grips were fitted by hand to each gun. This required great skill and accuracy in drilling the recesses necessary to accommodate the barrel and stock of the gun.

To quote Wikipedia:

The Forstner bit was “patented on September 22, 1874, [and] was to make him a rich man. Without the lead screw (which Forstner called the “gimlet-point”) and cutting lips of more conventional wood boring bits it would prove especially useful to gunsmiths like himself and other high-end woodworkers. The bit was unsurpassed in drilling an exceedingly smooth-sided hole with a flat bottom. It was better than the Russell Jennings twist bits for boring at an angle and not following the grain of the wood.

Forstner bits are unique in their ability to drill overlapping holes, notches on the edges of a workpiece, and angled holes on the face of a workpiece (pocket holes, for example). The bit will cut whether or not the center spur is engaging the workpiece. This feature is unique to the Forstner bit.

Colt Forstner bits sold by Infinity Cutting Tools excel at drilling clean, flat-bottom holes, even in the edge of a workpiece.

As time wore on, patents expired, and dozens of manufacturers sought to improve on the design. One of those companies is Colt, based in Germany. They manufacture a unique Forstner-style bit in France.

Colt Forstner-Style Bits by Infinity Cutting Tools

Unlike your run-of-the-mill Forstner bit, Colt bits have a unique geometry that creates a clean, flat-bottom hole without burning and clogging.

The first thing you’ll notice is that the entire circumference of the bit isn’t a cutting edge as it is on cheaply made bits. Colt bits have sort of a scoring tooth that quickly scores the outside diameter of the hole. This prevents burning.

Then if you look at the flat cutting edges on the inside that actually do the bulk of the cutting, you’ll notice some differences there, too. The cutting edges have notches cut into them. The result is small shavings that are less likely to clog the bit.

Another benefit to this unique cutting edge geometry is that it facilitates sharpening the bit when needed. And because there’s less tendency to burn, the bit will stay sharper longer.

Finally, and I know it’s a small detail, but the center spur on Colt Forstner bits is shorter than you’ll find on a lot of Forstner-style bits. This means there’s less of a dimple at the bottom of the stopped holes and there’s less likelihood the spur will break through the opposite side of the workpiece when drilling deep, stopped holes (recesses for hinge cups, for example).

Infinity Cutting Tools carries a full line of Colt drill bits. I use them. And I highly recommend them.

Carbide. Another improvement in Forstner bits over the years has been the introduction of carbide for the cutting edges. The Infinity Tools 7-pc. Carbide-Tipped Forstner Bit Set offers a good value. The tough, carbide edges will last many times longer than conventional steel bits. I keep a set on hand when drilling tough materials.

The cutting edges on these bits are tipped with carbide for long life and easy drilling in tough materials.

Odie’s Oil finishing products are available from Infinity Cutting Tools in a convenient finishing kit (115-415)

It’s no secret that I am a huge fan of Odie’s Oil. (Check out my earlier article here.) When fellow woodworkers see my projects I get a lot of questions about how I get the finish I do. These questions range from durability, to application, to prep work. I have used Odie’s Oil on everything from guitars to solid wood floors with great success. In fact Odie’s is my go-to finish for all my instruments. If you have been looking for a finish that makes it easy to achieve great results, Odie’s Oil is what you’ve been looking for. Here are answers to some of the most common questions about the finish and how to get the most out of it.

Using a sanding block and taking your time is the key to a high-quality finish.

How far should I sand?
This is the ever present question, and I tell people the more you put in the more you will get out of the finish. I think 600-grit is the sweet spot for most projects. Something happens at 600-grit and the wood just comes alive. I know 600-grit sounds crazy but hang in there and let me explain. All the hard work in sanding is done once you get past 180- or 220-grit. After that, all you have to do is get out minor scratches left by the previous grit. This doesn’t take as long as the coarser grits and really brings your project to the next level.

Sanding to 2000 grit is not necessary on many projects, but if you have never tried it, you are missing out on a lot of subtle figure in the wood you are using. For me seeing the wood come alive makes all the sanding worth while.

Don’t skip grits! And don’t get in a hurry. If you were using a film finish like poly, lacquer, varnish, or shellac you would have to block-sand the finish then buff it out. This is messy and much less enjoyable than sanding bare wood, in my opinion. As always, sanding blocks are your friend. Don’t round over those nice crisp details you worked so hard to make. On Instruments I sand to 1500- or even 2500-grit. Sanding to these high grits doesn’t take as much time as you might think.

I get asked all the time if you can get a high gloss finish with Odie’s Oil. I will let the photograph speak for itself.

The magazines say not to sand past 220
Okay, that’s not a question, but Odie’s has no problem soaking into the wood when sanded with high grits. Film finishes need a rough surface because they don’t actually stick to the wood, they sit on top of it and bite into the rough surface. In other words, they need a mechanical bond in order not to peel off. The problem with this is that the sanding scratches can hide a lot of subtle figure and beauty in the wood. Having the wood polished means you can see the true beauty of the wood. All of the subtle colors and figure really pops!

What Level Gloss can I expect?
Can I really get a high gloss with Odie’s?  My answer to this depends on what you consider high gloss. Sanding to 1500, 2000, or even 2500-grit can result in a mirror finish. I consider this a high gloss, however it does look different than a film of lacquer or varnish. With Odie’s Oil the finish does not hide the wood under a film. It protects and nourishes the wood. A film finish looks like a layer of glass or plastic on the surface. Odie’s Oil does not — it simply looks more natural.

How Durable is Odie’s Oil?
As I said earlier, I have used Odie’s on everything from wide-plank wood floors to guitars. The finish is very durable.It doesn’t show scratches as a lacquer might, and if the finish does become damaged, it is easily repaired with a spot application of more oil. Simply rub it on and buff it out. The finish is becoming more and more popular in restaurants on tables and wood bar tops because it is so easy to touch up. Anyone can do it.

How Many Coats do I need?
This is a tough question and it depends on a lot of factors. What look do you want? How glossy? Which product are you using? There are 3 main products in the Odie’s Oil line; oil, butter, and wax. I use all three, depending on the project. If you sand all the way to 2000-grit or higher, you don’t need anything more than oilbut the butter and wax can add additional protection and sheen in fewer coats.  If you stop around 600-grit, the butter and wax can also help you build the sheen that would take many coats with just the oil. You simply need to understand each product. The oil product is mostly oil with a little wax. The wood butter is a 50/50 blend of oil and wax. And the wax is well, mostly wax. This may be a little over-simplified but you get the idea. The oil penetrates the wood, the butter lays a good wax foundation and finishes off the wood’s ability to soak up oil. The wax tops it all off and gives you a nice, hard, protective wax surface.

Here is my challenge to you all, on your next small or medium-sized project, Pic Up an assortment pack of our Mirka Wet/Dry Sandpaper and take the time to sand your project through the finer grits. Try some Odie’s Oil and enjoy the results. I think you will be able to bring your projects to the next level with ease

I would consider this a pretty High Gloss, I will let you decide for yourself.

If you’ve ever tried to use a conventional bench chisel to remove waste from a tight corner, you might have been frustrated that the cutting edge can’t quite reach into the corner. This is especially true with hand-cut dovetail joinery. Clearing out the waste between the tails can be tricky.

Infinity Cutting Tools Dovetail Chisels 101-809. The steep bevel angles allow the blade to fit into tight corners.

We’re proud to offer a pair of dovetail chisels by Narex. As you can see below, their geometry is what sets them apart from your ordinary bench chisel.

The unique triangular cross-section of a dovetail chisel (left) distinguishes it from a standard bench chisel (right).

The Narex dovetail chisels copy their unique shape from Asian-style chisels, including the recessed pocket on the back that allows for faster flattening of the back when you first sharpen the chisel.

These chisels aren’t designed to replace your standard set of bench chisels, but rather complement them. When it comes to paring and removing waste, especially around the tails of hand-cut dovetail joinery, these chisels can’t be beat.

But you’ll find yourself reaching for these chisels for other tasks, as well. They excel at fine-tuning almost any joinery for a perfect, gap-free fit.

Narex dovetail chisels mimic Asian-style chisels with a pocket formed on the back.

Available in 1/2″ and 3/4″ widths, these affordable chisels take a keen edge and will up the craftsmanship of your work.

Narex Dovetail Chisel Set (100-809) from Infinity Cutting Tools

#InfinityTools

In this post, I’ll step you through building the Saw Blade Storage Cabinet you see here. At the bottom of this post, you’ll find a couple of helpful videos plus links to download plans and a 3D SketchUp model of the project. You’ll also find a complete list of all of the products from Infinity Cutting Tools we used to build this handy storage cabinet.

In my shop, I’ve had a saw blade rack right next to my table saw. I got the idea from an old issue of ShopNotes magazine, No. 107. It was a simple cabinet with hardboard trays. Each tray was made from two layers of 1/4″ hardboard. The top layer had a circular cutout just a hair over 10″ in diameter to accommodate the blade. The trays slid in dadoes cut into the cabinet sides.

Over time, this old saw blade rack became less useful. I had acquired more blades than it would hold. Plus, there was no storage for my dado stack. And all the little doodads like dado shims? Well, they were relegated to a small plastic tub that kept getting full of sawdust.

So I decided it was time to come up with a better solution for storing my saw blades and related accessories.

For my new saw blade storage cabinet, I wanted to use the Infinity Cutting Tools saw blade protectors to store each of my saw blades. They’re meant to be standalone “carriers” for storing and transporting your saw blades without fear of damaging the carbide teeth. But I thought they would make ideal trays for my saw blade cabinet.

I also wanted to use Infinity’s Case For 6″ & 8″ Stacked Dado Blade to store my dado stack. So I needed to make room for that in my new design.

As an added bonus, I wanted a place to store table saw accessories like dado shims and wrenches. I incorporated a plywood drawer, or tray, for this purpose

Before you get started, you’ll want to have the blade protectors and dado case on hand. This way, you can size the parts of the cabinet and all of the joinery for a proper fit.

CASE ASSEMBLY

For my cabinet, I used Baltic birch plywood. Baltic birch has become a favorite of mine because it it’s flat, void-free, and stable. Plus, because of it’s multiple, thinner plies than standard plywood, it’s a lot stronger. In some areas of the country, it may be hard to find. It that’s the case, look for plywood distributors in the area.

Baltic birch plywood is great for shop projects.

When cutting plywood, I like to use a blade that will minimize tearout and chipping of the thin face veneers. I used an 80-tooth crosscut blade (Item 010-080). It leaves a smooth edge without chipping. It’s also beneficial to use a zero-clearance insert on your table saw. This helps support the wood fibers as the blade exits the cut. I also like to use Jessem’s Clear-Cut Stock Guides when performing ripping operations at the table saw. The guides help hold the workpiece down on the table while keeping the workpiece tight against the rip fence. This helps ensure smooth cuts.

I ripped the plywood to width to match the width of the cabinet sides, top, and bottom. Then I crosscut the pieces to final length using a miter gauge and a stop block clamped to the rip fence. Using a stop block guarantees that the opposite sides of the cabinet will be identical in length. This is critical for a square assembly.

CASE JOINERY

I want to stop for a minute and talk about the joinery used to assembly the cabinet sides, top, and bottom. You’ll want to make this decision before you cut the top and bottom pieces to final length. The reason for this is that after you cut the dadoes in the cabinet sides that house the sliding trays for the blades, you’ll want to make sure the distance between the bottoms of the dadoes provides for a sliding fit of the trays without being too sloppy or too tight. For my case, I wanted to use a lapped miter joint. It’s great for use on plywood because it provides plenty of glue surface. An added benefit is that the plywood veneers don’t show on the outside of the mitered joints.

Lapped Miter Joint made using the Lapped Miter Joint Router Bit Set (55-505) from Infinity Cutting Tools.

If you’re looking for simplicity, you can use a variety of other joints such as butt joints, rabbets, pocket holes, or tongue and dado. Whatever joinery method you use will dictate the final length of the top and bottom of the cabinet pieces.

A SERIES OF DADOES

The next step in the process involves cutting a series of mirrored dadoes in the cabinet sides. The upper and lower dadoes support two plywood shelves, or dividers. The remaining dadoes in between accommodate the sliding trays for the blades.

The dadoes are 1/4″ deep and 5/8″ wide. They’re spaced 1″ on center, leaving 3/8″ of material between the dadoes. I used Infinity Tool’s Dadonator dado blade configured for 5/8″ width. After laying out the location for the first dado, I set up the rip fence on the table saw to act as a stop to position the workpiece for this first cut. Remember to cut the dado on each cabinet side before adjusting the rip fence for the next cut. I used the miter gauge to help feed the workpiece while keeping the end of the workpiece against the rip fence. I simply used the measuring tape on the rip fence rail to adjust the rip fence in 1″ increments to cut the remaining dadoes.

RABBETED BACK EDGES

For the back of the cabinet, I used 1/2″ Baltic birch. The back fits into rabbets cut into the sides and top along the inside back edge. The SketchUp illustration below shows what this looks like. I trimmed the bottom of the cabinet to fit flush with this rabbeted edge so that the back overlapped the bottom.

The back edges of the top and sides are rabbeted to accept the back. The bottom is trimmed so that the back overlaps.

To cut these rabbets, I used the dado stack still installed on the table saw. I made an auxiliary, sacrificial rip fence and slightly buried the blade in the fence so that it left 1/2″ of the blade exposed. (Watch the project video below to see how this works.) After adjusting the height of the dado blade to 1/2″, I cut the rabbet in the three case sides. Then I switched out the blade to the crosscut blade to trim the case bottom.

LAPPED MITER JOINTS

You’re ready to make the joinery used to assemble the case sides, top, and bottom. As I mentioned, I used Infinity’s Lapped Miter Router Bit Set (55-505). This set consists of two router bits to create matching profiles and a setup block to help you set the bit height and fence position for each cut. In our shop, we also have Jessem’s Clear-Cut Router Table Stock Guides installed on our router table. I have to say I’ve gotten a little spoiled using them. Like the table saw version, they act as helping hands to help keep the workpiece tight to the table and against the router table fence.

CASE ASSEMBLY

Regardless of the joinery you’ve chosen for the case, it’s time for glue-up. The video below shows a cool technique for gluing and assembling the case if you use miter joinery. I dry-assembled the case to obtain the dimensions for the back and cut it to final size. This way, you can use the back to help square up the cabinet assembly after you apply the glue and start adding clamps. With the cabinet face-down on the workbench, the back is simply glued in place. (I used a 10-lb. dumbbell as a weight to “clamp” the back in place.)

Measure across the diagonals to check the assembly for square. If the dimensions match, go ahead and tighten the clamps. If the diagonals don’t match, tweak the cabinet assembly until they do match. It’s important to try to get all of this done before the glue starts to set, so you’ll have to act quickly.

SHELVES

You’ll work on the two plywood shelves, or dividers, next. They create the storage spaces at the top and bottom of the cabinet. The top space houses the removable tray for storing accessories. The bottom space is reserved for storing your dado blade.

Measure between the bottoms of the dadoes in the cabinet sides to obtain the length of the shelves. Measure from the inside back of the cabinet to the front edge for the width of the shelves, then you can cut them to size. Because the shelves are 3/4″ thick, I cut a shallow rabbet to form a 5/8″-thick tongue to fit into the dadoes. After testing the fit of the shelves, I applied a little glue to the first couple of inches of the dadoes before tapping the shelves in place with a mallet and wood block.

The shelf is rabbeted to fit the dadoes in the cabinet sides. Drawer runners and a stop are added to keep the dado storage case centered in the opening.

 DRAWER RUNNERS AND STOP

You’ll notice in the photo above I added a pair of runners and a stop in the bottom storage area. These are sized for the dado case I’m using. Your dimensions may vary. The SketchUp illustration below shows these parts more clearly.

Drawer runners and a stop position the dado case in the opening.

STORAGE TRAY

The last piece to build is the storage tray. I made mine from 1/2″ plywood. The tray front and back are rabbeted to accept the sides. I sized the parts so that there was a 1/16″ gap between the tray front and the opening. The tray front sits flush with the cabinet, so this will dictate the length of the tray sides.

The storage tray is a great add-on to store all of your table saw accessories like dado shims, wrenches, and other items.

There are a couple of things to do before you can assemble the tray. I cut the front and back of the tray to size first. Then I cut the rabbets on the ends. This way, I can get an accurate measurement for the length of the sides before cutting them to size. The next step is to cut a groove on the inside face of all of the parts to accept a 1/4″ plywood bottom. I positioned the groove 1/4″ from the bottom edge.

For the front of the tray, I made a finger notch by using a 1-1/4″-dia. Forstner bit at the drill press. The trick to making the 1/2-circle notch is to drill with the center spur of the bit just barely engaging the edge of the workpiece and making sure the workpiece is clamped securely before drilling.

The final step before glue-up is to round over both the inside and outside edges of the finger notch with a 1/4″-rad. roundover bit. After assembly, I used this same bit to round over the top, inside edges of the tray. A little trick I used to ensure the tray seated all the way into the opening is to round over all four edges of the tray back. This way, if there’s any dried glue or sawdust in the back corners of the opening, the tray will still slide all the way in.

SANDING AND FINISHING

To finish the cabinet, I used Mirka Abranet Sanding disks on my random-orbit sander and sanded through 220-grit. I applied a coat of Odie’s Oil just to provide some added protection. Plus, the oil finish just makes the cabinet look nicer.

You can download a PDF file of plans here:

Click to download PDF plans of the Saw Blade Storage Cabinet

Download the 3D SketchUp model I used here:

Click the image to download a 3D SketchUp model you can use and modify to suit your saw blade storage needs.

INFINITY CUTTING TOOLS PRODUCTS USED FOR THIS PROJECT

• 80-Tooth Crosscut Blade (010-080)
• Jessem Clear-Cut Table Saw Stock Guides (TSF-SG1)
• Zero-Clearance Insert
• Fence Clamps
• Miter Gauge (IMG-004)
• Lapper Miter Router Bit Set (55-505)
• Jessem Clear-Cut Router Table Stock Guides (RTF-SG1)
• Blade Protectors
• Dado Storage Case (BOX-SDB)
• Titebond Wood Glue
• Bar Clamps
• Colt Forstner Bit
• 1/4″ Roundover Bit
• Mirka Abranet Sanding Disks
• Odie’s Oil

When you think of how many buildings have wood window sashes it’s no surprise that making them is a very popular topic of discussion.

It amazes me how many fellow woodworkers out there have questions or seem a little skittish about the prospect of making wood window sashes or French doors. When I stop and think about the number of old homes and buildings around the world that have wood windows, I suppose it really shouldn’t be a surprise at all. If you’re thinking about making some windows and are looking for a primer on what is involved, watch the video and keep reading as I walk you through the steps of making a window using the Infinity Cutting Tools 55-801 standard window sash router bit set.

With the overall dimensions of the window set, all of the individual pieces of the window can be sized and cut to length.

The first step to making a window is to determine the outside dimension of the sash and cut the rails and stiles to size. The overall size of my window is 18″ x 24″. The rails and stiles measure 2-1/4″ wide x 1-3/8″ thick. The muntins measure 3/4″ wide x 1-3/8″ thick. The length of the vertical stiles is easy to figure as they run the full height of the window. The rails, being shorter, require a little math:

Rail Length = 18″ total sash width minus the combined width of the two stiles (2-1/4 x 2 = 4-1/2″), adding the width of the profile twice (1/4″ x 2 = 1/2″), and adding the length of the tenon twice (1″ +1″ = 2″), which equals 16″. This leaves a rail with a 1″ tenon on each end. In a divided light window the horizontal muntins are the same length as the rails. To figure out the length of the vertical muntins follow the same procedure you did to figure out the length of your rails. For my window, the vertical muntin is 22″.

Setting up the dado set at the tablesaw to make 1″ tenons.

With the fence set, I can set the blade height to cut the tenons. This height will vary depending on the thickness of the sash material.

Some confusion always comes up when discussing the vertical and horizontal division bars in a divided light window. I will refer to both the vertical and horizontal bars as muntins. Also to make things easy I will refer to the side of the window with the profile as the front, or face, and the side of the window with the rabbets for the glass as the back.

The tenons should be 1/4″ thick when using the Infinity 55-801 window sash set.

With all pieces cut to size and length, it is time to cut the tenons on the ends of the rails and muntins.The important dimension to remember is that the tenon must be 1/4″ thick when using the Infinity 55-801 bit set. Where that tenon falls depends on the thickness of the material, how deep you want the rabbet for the glass, and how much of a fillet you want on the face of the window. In my case, the tenon is 5/8″ from the face and 1/2″ from the back of the rails. I used a Infinity Dadonator on the tablesaw to create the tenon, setting the fence to 1″ and the blade height to 5/8″. I nibbled away the waste on the face side of my rails. I then lowered the dado to 1/2″ and removed the waste from the back side to create a 1/4″-thick tenon. The final step is to stand the rail on edge and use the dado blade to cut 1/2″ from the width of the tenons.

The tenon on the rails is notched back on one side 1/2″ and the cope is cut using the coping bit at the router table.

Once the tenons are cut it’s time to make the coping cuts. The cope cutter is set up in the router table so that the top of the cutter just brushes the underside of the tenon with the rail face down. The fence is set at 1-1/4″ from the leading edge of the cutter. With this setting, both rails and all the muntins can be coped. To feed the pieces through I use a miter gauge to support the workpiece and a backer block to reduce tearout.

Using a square can help set the router table fence. The fence needs to be set to cut its full profile of 1/4″ under the tenon.

With the tenons formed and cope cuts made on the ends of the rails and muntins, it’s time to lay out the mortises. A wheel marking gauge is quick to set up to define the width of the mortises. The tenons itself help locate the length of the mortises. A little measuring is required to locate the mortises for the muntins. I gang both rails and corresponding muntins together and mark all the way across the pieces. This ensures that if I’m slightly off-center, I still get square intersections between pieces. The same goes for the stiles.

I use a wheel-style marking gauge to set the distance from the cheek of the tenon to mark out for the corresponding mortises.

Using the tenon to mark the mortise eliminates all the guesswork and insures that the mortises will always be in the right location.

I use the tenon itself to lay out the location of the mortise in the stile.

When marking the location of the mortises for the muntins, I gang all the pieces together to ensure that everything aligns and is square when assembled.

The mortises can be cut a number of ways. The easiest would be with a hollow chisel mortiser. The most traditional method would be to use a mortise chisel. I split the difference and drilled out the majority of the waste at the drill press with a drill bit and cleaned out the waste with a couple of chisels. You can also set up a straight bit at the router table and plunge away the waste. As long as you end up with a straight, clean mortise the method is not important.

After the mortises are marked out and drilled, use chisels to remove the waste and clean up the mortises.

After making the stile cut at the router table, notch away the little square of material on the ends of the stiles as marked in the photo below. Removing this material allows the pieces to drop together and the cope to match the profile. I use a backsaw for this, but a sharp chisel will also do the trick.

Once the mortises are finished all pieces can be profiled at the router table and the small waste piece removed. Once that’s done, the window can be dry-assembled to check the fit of the joints.

Now it is time to make a couple of jigs and fixtures that make the rest of the process of making the window a little easier. Using a piece of scrap wood roughly the same dimension as the window frame and about 8″ longer, use the cope cutter to run a cope the length of the scrap piece (photo below).

Making a custom push block makes the process of milling the muntins much easier. This same piece will also be used as a fixture later on to hold the muntin while you trim the miter joints where the bars intersect.

Now mark the scrap piece so that you can remove the material up to the end of the tenon on the back side of one of your rails. I did this at the tablesaw using an Infinity Cutting Tools 1/4″ flat top blade.  With the material in the middle removed you will have a piece with the reverse profile of the window sash.

When making the push block, the last little bit of material is easily removed at the tablesaw with a flat-top blade or at the router table with a straight bit.

Cut about 8″ off of one end of your profiled scrap piece and miter the ends at a 45°, as pictured below.

This simple block is the key to creating the interlocking joint between the muntins.

Now take the remainder and add a hook to one end. This becomes the push block for profiling the muntins. Without this block the process of profiling these skinny pieces can be tricky at best. When adding the hook, make sure that it projects no more than 3/4″ on the flat side and 1/2″ on the profile side.

Adding a hook to the end completes the push stick and the muntins can be milled with ease.

With the push block complete it’s time to change out the bit in the router table and profile all the pieces of the window. I use the cope end of one of the rails to help set the bit to the proper height. When the rabbeting cutter brushes the top of the tenon, and the fillet at the bottom of the profile lines up, everything is set correctly.

The rails and stiles are easy to run as there is plenty of meat to hold onto, but the muntins are a different story. This is where I grab the push block. A little double-sided tape does a great job of securing the muntin to the block on the first cut to ensure a clean cut. The second cut is even easier — just flip the push block over and nest the muntin into the profile in the push block. The block holds the muntin in place and keeps fingers clear of the router bit.

I stick the muntin to the flat side of the push stick with double-sided tape and run it through the router.

The milled side of the muntin will now drop into the recess in the push stick and make milling the other side worry-free.

With the muntins cut, the window can be dry fit to insure that the muntins are the correct length. This is when you’ll do any fine tuning of the mortises for a perfect fit. At this point, the muntins can be tested for proper length by checking the verticals and horizontals separately.

Many tutorials show making a shallow mortise-and-tenon joint at the intersection of the muntins. I find making a half lap joint to be stronger, more traditional, and easier. Not to mention it impresses the heck out of people.

My favorite part of the process is making the overlapping joint in the muntins. With the little miter block and a sharp chisel this is a much easier joint to make than you might think.

The first step is to create a 1/4″ notch through the profile at the center of the intersection of each piece

The first step in making the half lap is to make a 1/4″ groove centered at the intersection of the muntins. For this, I use a 1/4″ flat top blade at the tablesaw, but this could also be done at the router table. This cut is made only through the profile portion on both sides of the muntins.

With the notches cut, it’s over to the workbench to cut the miters. I used my push block as a jig to hold the muntin stable. The miter block is clamped on top of the muntin. The miter is made with a chisel by paring away the waste until the 45° miter is formed. You’re done when the miter meets the flat at the middle of the muntin.

With the grooves cut I use my custom push block, miter block, and chisel to create the 45°miters of the joint.

Clamping the miter block in place makes it easy to get very accurate results and guarantees a tight-fitting joint between the muntins.

After one side is mitered, it’s a matter of flipping the muntin around and repeating the process on the other side. Finish up all the muntins and the job is 90% done. With a sharp chisel this process goes fast.

This is what the miters should look like after trimming.

The final step is to head back over to the tablesaw and notch both muntins so they can lock together. Using the 1/4- kerf blade, I adjust the blade height to half the thickness of the muntin ( in this case 11/16″) and notch one muntin at the front edge and one on the back edge.

The last step is to notch the muntins so that they can be joined together.

Do not force the pieces together if they’re tight. Take them back to the bench and with the miter block, pare away the tight spots.

If the joint does not want to fit, a trip back to the bench and the chisel and miter block can pare away the tight spots for a perfect fit.

With the muntins mitered together all that is left is to dry-assemble the window and final glueup. Take your time dry fitting the window. If your mortises are not lining up you may have been off slightly when you marked them out. Rotate the muntin assembly 180° and see if they slide together. Once everything fits together as desired all that is left is to add glue to the tenons and clamp up the sash.  The sash is complete and is ready for sanding and applying your finish of choice.

The final step is some glue and clamps and the window sash is ready for sanding and your finish of choice.

Products used in this project:

Window Sash Router Bit Set (55-801)
Dadonator Dado Blade
Zero-Clearance Table Saw Insert
Steel Rules
Incra Miter Gauge
Wheel Marking Gauge (100-110)
4″ Sliding Double Square (100-004)
1/4″-Kerf Flat-Top Blade (080-250)
Router Table
Double-Sided Tape (101-286)
Chisels
Birdcage Awl (101-744)

It’s no secret that I love hammers and mallets. In fact, it has been suggested that I have a hammer problem. This may be due to the fact that I have four drawers in my tool chest, each dedicated to a different type of hammer or mallet. To the average person, a hammer is a tool to drive a nail. But a craftsman knows that hammers are used for much more. And having the right hammer ensures the task at hand is done with speed, precision, and without damage to other tools.

As woodworkers, the hammers and mallets we use are designed for very specific tasks: From tapping mortise chisels and carving gouges to persuading precise-fitting joinery together without leaving disfiguring marks. Here at Infinity Tools, we offer a set of mallets specifically designed for woodworking that we feel every woodworker should keep handy

Bench Mallet. The first is the Large Bench Mallet. Probably the most iconic woodworking tool behind the saw and hand plane, the Narex Large Bench Mallet is made from hornbeam and is perfect for driving a mortise chisel or any other task that requires some serious persuasion. The angle of the mallet faces are perfect when working at the bench, striking the end of a chisel standing high above the benchtop. Turning the mallet sideways gives a more traditional flat face that is perfect for lower work or to persuade joinery together if your not concerned about a possible pressure mark or two.  The bench mallet is also the perfect tool for setting and releasing holdfasts and should always be close at hand in case Frodo gets chased into the shop by a giant spider.

Carver’s Mallets. The Carver’s Mallet is another iconic tool that many woodworkers have not embraced. We offer three versions of the Carvers Mallet by Narex, including a Large beechwood Mallet, Small beechwood Mallet, and Brass Carver’s Mallet. The defining characteristic of the carvers mallet is its round shape. This tool is specifically designed for driving gouges and also works wonderfully for finessing a bench chisel where the name of the game is precision. As with any tool, the size of the mallet is paired to the amount of material being removed or the space available. The Large Carvers Mallet is wonderful for removing large amounts of stock without being so heavy as to cause fatigue.

The Small Carvers Mallet offers precision when using smaller tools and when precision is of the utmost. It can also get in and out of some pretty tight spots.

The Brass Carvers Mallet, one of my favorites, offers substantial heft close at hand and is the perfect choice when working with non-wooden handle tools or through-shank tools like the Narex Profesional Screwdrivers. The brass head is also perfect in tight quarters. The heavy brass head and short handle provide plenty of force in tight quarters without sacrificing control. The small brass mallet is one that I find myself reaching for over and over. For me it is the Goldilocks of carvers mallets.

Deadblow Mallet. While the previous tools are all designed to drive other tools, the deadblow is designed to aid in project assembly. The Narex Premium Deadblow has two soft, plastic faces that will not cause damage to workpieces while driving them together. The beauty of the deadblow is that it doesn’t bounce. The head is filled metal pellets that are free to move about inside the hammer and absorb the rebound energy. This ensures a solid strike, sending all of the force into the workpiece without wasting any energy.

Having the correct mallets and knowing when to use them helps projects go together more smoothly and with greater precision. Don’t take my word for it — pick up a few new mallets and see what a difference they can make in your work.

Click to learn more about the chisels, screwdrivers, and carving tools used in this video.

The 55-802 Window Sash Jr. router bit set allows you to make a thinner sash but requires a different procedure for creating the tenons.

A lot of people have asked if it is possible to make 1-1/8″ to 1-1/4″ thick window sash for restoration projects or even storm windows. With the Infinity Cutting Tools 55-802 Window Sash Jr. router bit set the answer is Yes! However, with the Window Sash Jr. set the construction layout is a bit different than is outlined in How to Make a Window Sash- Part 1 where we made a 1-3/8″ sash using the 55-801 Standard Window Sash router bit set. If you are planning to make a window using the Window Sash Jr. set I recommend first checking out Part 1 and then following along with the changes needed for the smaller set. These changes are easy to make and can be also be used with the standard router bit set. In other words, this process is backwards-compatible though its use is a little less traditional.

While the procedure for making the tenons in Part 1 of this blog require a couple fewer steps to make, the tenons are limited to being 1/4″ thick when using the 55-801 Standard Window Sash router bit set and only 1/8″ thick if used with the 55-802 Window Sash Jr. router bit set.

First we need to understand the difference between the two Window Sash bit sets. With the larger 55-801 set there is room for a 1/4″ tenon between the profile on the front of the sash and the rabbet on the back. This is not the case with the 55-802 Jr. set. In order for the sash to shrink and still have a 1/2″ rabbet for glass, the profile and flat where the tenon is usually held must also shrink. If the same procedure were followed as in part-1 the resulting tenon would only be 1/8″ or so thick when using the 55-802 Jr. set.

the face of the tenon will just clear the top of the cope cutter. For my 1-1/8″ window the tenon is 1/2″ from the face.

In order to make the sash strong the thickness and location of the mortises and tenons is changed a little bit. These changes are easy to lay out, let me show you how I did it on a recent build.

With the 55-802 Wondow Sash Jr. the tenon straddles the rabbet for the glass. This allows the tenon to be thicker and makes for a strong sash. If I was making a thicker window I would still make the tenon end 1/4″ from the back of the sash. This will make setup easier when milling the tenon.

With all the stock for the sash cut to size (same process as in Part 1) it is time to lay out the tenon. For my 1-1/8″ thick window sash the tenon is 1/2″ from the face and 1/4″ from the back, creating a 3/8″ thick tenon. If I needed a slightly thicker sash I would add the thickness to the tenon and face and leave the 1/4″ measurement on the back constant.  An easy way to determine the location of your tenon is to start with a scrap piece cut to the thickness of your sash and using the rail cutter to make a sample at the desired setting. With this and the cope cutter you can determine the location of the face of the tenon. The depth of cut to expose the back of the tenon makes no difference, but setting it to be 1/4″ from the back makes the setup easier because we will need to make a 1/4″ deep cut on the edges of the rails and muntins anyway.

The first cut is made 1/2″ deep on the face of the muntins and on the face and one edge of the rails.

The tenons are finished by lowering the dado to 1/4″ and dadoing the remainder of the faces.

The width of the tenon is also a little different. The tenon is trimmed back from the edge 1/2″ one on edge and 1/4″ on the other.  The tenon on the muntins is trimmed 1/2″ from the face and 1/4″ on the remaining 3 sides, creating a tenon that measures 1/4″ x 3/8″. The 1/4″ dimension is important because it removes the perfect amount of material to create a rectangular tenon and not end up with a tenon that looks more like a “T” or some other shape from Tetris.

With the tenons cut, the corresponding mortises can be laid out and cut. Just as with the larger Sash I use a wheel marking gauge and the tenon itself to lay out the mortises.

The wheel marking gauge works perfect to lay out the mortises.

Using the tenon itself to mark the other sides makes the job quick and accurate.

The little blocked of material marked with an x must be removed to complete the tenon.

The process of coping the rails and muntins remains the same but there is a small square of material that must be removed (see photo above) before the joints will slide together. I just grab a chisel and pare this piece away — it is only 1/8″ x 1/4″ in size. With this little square removed the tenons are complete. This little square will also need to be removed on the muntins as well.

Here is what the tenons will look like before and after the little piece is removed.

That’s it, no other changes are required. The profile cut is made the same way as is the miter joint between the muntins. I even make the same push block and miter block as I do for the standard window sash set.

If you’ve ever struggled to set up a cut at an odd angle or simply wished for an easy way to level a cabinet, picture frame, or woodworking machine the iGaging Digital AngleCube (DAG-001) is the perfect solution. The Digital AngleCube serves two purposes. First it’s a digital level. Its small size allows it to fit into tight places to make leveling easy. It has a large LCD display. Unlike a spirit level, there is no need to guess if the bubble is centered in the tube. When the AngleCube reads 0.00° you know you’re right on the money. The unit is precision-calibrated and accurate down to 0.2° with a repeat-ability of 0.1°. In other words, it’s extremely accurate.

Secondly, the Digital AngleCube acts as an angle finder. It has magnets on three sides which allow it to be firmly attached to any ferrous metal surface like a saw blade or cast iron tablesaw top. You can can even use the Digital AngleCube upside down and use the magnets to hold the cube in place on the bottom of a steel beam or pipe, for example. The display will automatically flip the numbers right-side up for easy readability.

If you’re like me, your tablesaw is on a mobile base and your shop floor isn’t perfectly level. The Digital AngleCube is still able to set the perfect blade angle referenced off of the saw surface from 0° all the way to 90°. To accurately set the saw blade angle, first place the cube on the surface and push the “Zero” button.  With the AngleCube zeroed to the table surface it can be attached to the sawblade and the AngleCube will read the angle of the blade in relation to the top, regardless of whether or not the saw is level. The same goes for the bandsaw, jointer fence, or drill press.

The Digital AngleCube will also hold a measurement so that you can move the AngleCube and take it to the workbench or saw without loosing the angle you need to copy. To hold a measurement, simply press the “Hold” button and the AngleCube will freeze the display. No more need to try and remember an oddball angle when walking across the shop or job site to make a cut in a piece of trim.

The iGaging Digital AngleCube has a precision-machined and anodized aluminum body to ensure accurate readings when transitioning from measuring from the bottom to the side of the cube. This also means the cube can be used as a square in tight places. The Digital AngleCube uses a 9-volt battery and will run up to a year with normal use. So it should be ready to work when you need it. It also comes with a storage pouch to keep it protected when not in use and a small screwdriver to make changing the battery a quick job when it eventually needs replacing.

With the iGauging Digital AngleCube there’s no more need to worry about setting up machines, finding tricky angles for projects, or setting a true level surface. Just grab the AngleCube and go to work.

Somewhere in my woodworking past, several years ago, I picked up one of these gems:

Infinity Cutting Tools – Shark Saw (Item 101-875)

I’ve used this saw almost more than any other saw in my shop. As a matter of fact, I use it so often, I bought a second one. I keep one in my shop and the other in my tool bucket I use for household chores and repairs. I use it for trimming joinery, cutting plug and dowels to length, cutting door jambs to fit flooring underneath, and a whole host of other tasks. The blade is thin and flexible, so it’s ideal for these jobs. I’ve had these saws for years and have yet to replace the blades because the impulse-hardened teeth seem to last forever.

The purchase of this little saw got me started down the road of using pull-saws, or Japanese-style saws. They take some getting used to, especially if you’ve grown up with Western-style saws, like I have. Truthfully, I have a mix of both Western-style and pull saws in my shop. But I’m finding myself reaching for the pull saws more frequently.

Pulling Teeth

Pull saws, as the name implies, cut on the pull stroke. This differs from Western-style saws that cut on the push stroke. And because they cut on the pull stroke, the blade is always in tension. This means the blade can be a lot thinner. It’s like pulling on opposite ends of a piece of paper — as long as there’s tension, the paper remains taught and straight. The same principle works on a pull saw blade.

Infinity Cutting Tools offers a series of saws from Shark Corporation. The blades are made of high-quality Japanese steel specifically sharpened for fast, smooth cutting. The “SharkSaw Series” brand features non-slip handles for comfort. The more traditional Japanese-style “Takumi” brand of saws utilize a wood handle wrapped in rattan.

The teeth on the Shark saws are specially ground with a diamond pattern to create three cutting edges. They excel at crosscutting but do an excellent job of ripping, too. Most saws have a “set” to the teeth. This means the teeth are bent slightly in an alternating pattern. This ensures the cut is wider than the saw plate to prevent binding during the cut. Some saw manufacturers also taper-grind the blade so that it’s thinner along the edge opposite the teeth.

Because the steel on pull saws is so much thinner, you’ll find that the set on the teeth is much less dramatic than you’d find on Western-style saws. This has the advantage of creating a very thin kerf that requires much less effort when sawing.

Using a Pull Saw

If you’ve never used a pull saw before, let me just give you a word of warning: Don’t jump right in without practicing on some scrap material first. If you try to use a pull saw as you would a traditional Western-style saw, you’ll likely do what I did the first time and bend the thin blade, creating a kink which renders the saw useless.

Using a Dozuki Saw (101-887) for Fine Cuts

Pull saws were originally designed to be used with two hands. Traditional Japanese woodworkers sit on the floor at a low bench and use their feet to hold the workpiece. This position lends itself well to using a saw on the pull stroke. Sometimes they’ll stand and use the saw on the workpiece positioned at their feet, still using two hands for a smooth, straight cut.

Western-style saws, on the other hand, are designed to be used with one hand. Their stiff blades lend themselves to one-handed use on the push stroke. As I mentioned, a pull saw requires a different technique and some practice.

The first thing to note is that you don’t need to force the saw into the cut. Generally speaking, the weight of the saw itself, with its razor-sharp teeth, is sufficient to do the cutting. A light touch is all that’s required. So relax the death grip.

The critical component in your technique is to ensure the blade travels in a straight path throughout the stroke. Any side-to-side deviation risks binding the blade or worse, bending the blade. Whatever technique you find that works for you to accomplish goal will produce better results and smooth, straight cuts.

A Hybrid Blend of History and Technology

I like to think of the Shark pull saws as a blend of ancient Japanese tool-making craftsmanship and modern technology. They use Japanese steel that is precision-ground and machined to create super-sharp teeth. Then, in most cases, the teeth are impulse-hardened to create long-lasting, tough cutting edges that can last for years before the blade needs replaced.